Sewing machine for overcasting



Filed J1me 1960 E. PERL SEWING MACHINE FOR OVERCASTING 3 Sheets-Sheet l IN VEN TOR. f M L E PL-KL BY PM; mnv

A 'r'romvsy July 6, 1965 E. PERL SEWING MACHINE FOR OVERCASTING 2 Um m t OR V/ i 5 h Mp N S V R N 0 w f n w L. A m y mm 3 C Filed June 2, 1960 July 6, 1965 E. PERL SEWING MACHINE FOR OVERCASTING 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 Filed June 2. 1960 mmvrox. EMILE PERL United States Patent G 3,192,887 SEWING MACHINE FOR OVERCASTING Emile Perl, Saacy sur Marne, France, assignor to G. M. Pfafi A.G., Kaiserslautern, Germany Filed June 2, 1960, Ser. No. 33,408 Claims priority, application France, Feb. 13, 1960, 818 427 11 Claims. ((21. 112-152 chines of this kind comprise, therefore, on the one hand a stitching needle co-operating with a shuttle or a spool and on the other hand a group of whipping or overcasting elements or more generally edge seaming means, which are elfective at the same time as the stitching elements and act on the edge of the fabric.

The known machines of this kind have the disadvantage that their group of edge sealing elements connects the edges of the two thicknesses of fabric unless one of these edges is lifted to withhold it from the action of the said group of elements, and this necessitates a separate overcasting of the edge thus lifted, i.e., an additional operation. It is known in fact that a work of quality requires that the two edges should be overcast separately to be capable of being opened afterwards to an iron, i.e., folded back on either side of the stitching line.

The present invention has for its object the provision of a machine of the kind in question, which permits simultaneously with a seaming of the two superimposed pieces of fabric by a simple or multiple line of stitching of an overcasting or similar sewing of each of the two adjacent edges separately.

A machine according to the invention is characterized essentially by a division of the group of edge seaming elements into two groups, one ahead and the other to the rear in relation to the direction of movement of the fabric, a separator adapted to be inserted between the two pieces of fabric plumb with one of these groups, and a thrusting element actuated with a reciprocatory movement and adapted to fold back the edge of the lower piece of fabric plumb with the said separator and the group which it surmounts and to lift the edge of the upper piece of fabric plumb with the other group.

The movement'of the thrusting element being naturally synchronized with the movement of the two groups of edge seaming elements there is thus obtained in respect of these two groups the possibility of effecting simultaneously their usual operation, the group situated plumb with the separator acting on the edge of the upper piece of fabric, whilst the other acts on the edge of the lower fabric.

Owing to this arrangement it is possible to divide the groups of edge seaming elements into two without modifying in any way the usual working movements, which it will be suflicient to apply simultaneously. to the various elements of each of the two groups. The number, the nature and the movements of the elements of each of the two groups may vary according to the kind of edge seam desired. It would not seem from this point of view that there is any limitation to the possibilities of applying the invention.

The features and advantages of the invention will be apparent from the following description given by way of example with reference to the accompanying drawings, in which 3,192,881 Patented July 6, 1965 FIG. 1 is a perspective view of an overcast stitching device according to the invention.

FIGS. 2 and 3 are views of details adapted to show the operation.

FIG. 4 is a perspective view showing the operation of the needles.

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary view of two pieces of fabric stitched and overcast.

, FIG. '6 is a diagrammatical view of a detail showing a modification of the machine according to the invention adapted to obtain seams edged with tape.

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary view of two pieces of fabric stitched and edged by means of a machine according to FIG. 6.

According to the embodiment selected and illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 5, a machine according to the invention has been obtained by the adaptation of a conventional straight stitching machine. Such a machine, the table of which is shown at 1 and the head of which is shown at 2 (FIG. 1), comprises a needle bar 3 actuated by a vertical reciprocatory movement and an auxiliary support4, a shaft 5 of which actuates by an alternating angular movement a loop supporting arm 6. At 7 there is shown the needle plate and at 8 the supporting bar in respect of the presser foot, which is not shown. From the auxiliary support 4 there also extends a control shaft 9 in respect of tensioning means likewise actuated by an alternating angular movement.

The needle holder 11 mounted in the usual manner at the end of the needle bar 3 carries in this case, in addition to the stitching needle 12, which remains disposed in the usual fashion in the axis of the needle bar to cooperate with the unchanged shuttle 13, two overcasting needles, one 14 disposed ahead and the other 15 to the rear in relation to the direction of movement of the fabric, which is indicated by the arrow F.

. The loop forming means 16 mounted in the usual fashion at the end of the loop former supporting arm 6 care ries in turn an advanced looping device 18 adapted to cooperate with the overcasting needle 14 positioned ahead and a rear looping device 19 adapted to co-operate with the rear overcasting needle 15. The support 21 for the tensioning means, mounted on the shaft 9, carries an advanced tensioning means 22 and a rear tensioning means 23 adapted to co-operate respectively with the overcasting needles 14 and 15 located to the front and the rear; As will be better seen from FIG. 4, this support for the tensioning means comprises essentially a rod adapted to be securedto the shaft 9 in a position which is regulable both axially as well as angularly by means of a pair of V gripping jaws 25 closed at its upper end, whilst the ten-' sioning means 22,23 are engaged in a position individually regulable in all directions in holding sleeves 26, 27 respectively adapted to be immobilized in a selected position on the supporting rod 21 by means of locking screws 28, 29. On the shaft 9 for the tensioning means there is furthermore keyed a collar 30, which carries at the end of a rod 31 a guide piece 32 of U-form for the two threads, 33, 34 fed to the overcasting needles 14, 15, which threads pass together through an opening 35 provided for this purpose in the end of the shaft 9 and then respectively through openings 36, 37 provided for this purpose in the ends of the two arms of the guide 32, which are located substantially plumb with the needles 14, 15.

The threads 41, 42 fed to the two loop-forming means pass in turn through a guide 43 of suitable form (FIG. 1)

provided for'this purpose in the end of and below the table 1. V The needle plate 7 is naturally provided with apertures of the usual form, which are necessary for the passage of the needles 12, 14 and 15 and comprise the usual slots Q J for passage of the actuating clamps 44. Blocks 46, 47 (see also FIGS. 2 and 3) rigid with the needle plate carry, parallel to and above the latter in the working zone of the advanced overcasting needle 14, a separator 43 constituted by a metallic strip cutaccording to the profile indicated and advancing above the needle plate slightly to this side of the line of stitching (i.e., of the needle 12). As shown in the drawing, this strip possesses an arcuate form, the greater part of the width of which is situated opposite the advanced overcasting needle 14, whilst it clearly uncovers the zone of passage of the stitching needle 12. In. the part situated below this separating strip the needle plate '7 possesses a rounded recess 45 clearly visible in FIGS. 2 and 3. It accordingly replaces the needle plate in this zone of execution of the advanced overcasting and it is this which is provided with the aperture 49 for passage of the advanced overcasting needle 14. v

Opposite the blocks 46, 47 on the inner side of the machine (see FIG. 2) there operates a thrusting element 50 constituted by a bent piece of sheet metal secured by a bolt 51 to the end of a control lever 52 and forming two curved arms, viz., an advanced lower arm 53 operating below and a rear upper arm 54 operating above the separating strip 48. The lever 52 is actuated by an angular reciprocatory movement indicated by the arrow F 1, being for this purpose mounted for rotation about a fixed axis 55 and having, for example, its other arm urged by' a spring 56 into contact with a suitable'part of any kind indicated at '7, which is actuated by a reciprocatory movement, this part 57 being constituted, for example, by a cam and being actuated by any suitable element of the machine. 7 7

By way of modification the thrusting element may be mounted on a slide member which is suitably guided and actuated by a rectilinear reciprocatory movement in a direction perpendicular to the direction of movement of the fabric. According to another modification the thrusting element may be constituted by a part of suitable form associated with the separator and actuated by an oscillatory movement about an axis which is, for example, perpendicular to the edge of the fabric.

In the course of operation, two thicknesses of fabric 61, 62 (FIG. 2) being placed on the machine, and their edges 63, 64, which are to be overcast, being cut for the passage by the usual sectioning means, the separating strip 48 is engaged between the two thicknesses, the lower fabric 61 remaining in contact with the needle plate and passing below the separator, while the upper fabric 62 passes above the, same. operating in the usual manner with the associated shuttle 13, brings abouta stitching of the two fabrics, shown at 65 in FIG. 2. The overcasting needles 14 and ahead and to the rear also operate in the usual manner, co-opcrating with the loop-forming means 18, 19 on the one hand and with the tensioning means 22, 23 on the other hand, the two groups of overcasting elements thus formed, 14, 18, 22 on the one hand and 15, i9, 23 on the other hand, operating simultaneously and not being changed in any way, in particular as regards the usual control mechanism in respect of the shafts 5 and 9. This simultaneous operation is rendered possible by the action of the thrusting element, the lower advanced arm 53 of which folds back the edge 63 of the lower fabric 61 against the vertical releasing wall 45 in the arc of the needle plate, such as may be seen at 67 in FIG. 3, while the rear upper arm 54 of the thrusting device at the same time lifts the edge of the upper fabric, as may be seen at 68. The movement of the control lever 52 of the thrusting element is regulated in such a way that this operation on the part of the arms of the thrusting element coincides with the periods of downward movement of the needles 14, 15. Owing to this arrangement it is ensured that the advanced needle 14, after having penetrated the upper fabric, passes to the side of the folded back edge of the lower fabric,

The stitching needle 12 co' 49 while the rear needle 15 passes to the side of the raised edge 68 of the upper fabric before penetrating the lower fabric. After each lifting of the needles the two assembled pieces of fabric are advanced normally by the actuating clamp, the thrusting element then being moved aside in such a way that the outgoing fabric assembly possesses (FIG. 5), in addition to the usual stitching 65, an independent overcast stitching 69, 79 of the two edges.

FIG. 6 shows diagrammatically a modification of the invention whereby there may be obtained simultaneously with the usual stitching 65 of the two pieces of fabric 61, 62, seams 71, 72 edged with tape, as shown in FIG. 7. This result is, obtained very simply according to the invention by mounting on the needle bar 3 of a machine of the kind stated a holder 73 for three needles, viz., a stitching needle 74, an advanced needle 75 and a rear needle 76, and by causing these three needles to co-operate with three shuttles respectively, viz., a stitching shuttle 77, an advanced shuttle 78 and a rear shuttle 79. The two groups of edge seaming means comprise, therefore, in this case the needle 75 and the advanced shuttle 78 and the nedele 76 and the rear shuttle 79. The first group will operate on the upper fabric plumb with the separator 48, while the second group ensures the edge seaming of the. lower fabric. The separator 43 and the thrusting element 56 are unchanged with respect to the form of embodiment previously described. It will be understood that the two edge tapes will be fed by means of folding guides (not shown) well known in themselves, which may be disposed without difiiculty ahead of the device.

It will be understood that the invention is not limited to the embodiments selected and illustrated, which have been given solely by way of example, and it may be adapted to any type of edge seaming means, it being understood that the edge seaming means as a whole are divided into two identical groups disposed one ahead and the other to the rear in relation to the direction of movement of the fabric. In particular there may be considered, additionally by way of example, the application of the invention to whipping devices with reinforcing stitching, in which each group of edge seaming elements will comprise two needles and will operate with four threads; also the application to edge seaming means of the safety stitch type or to other kinds.

On the other hand it is obvious that the seam or line of stitching may be of a simple or multiple nature, i.e., that the machine may comprise, for example, two stitching needles and shuttles, loop-forming or corresponding means of a like nature, staggered perpendicularly to the direction of advance of the fabric.

While I have shown and described the preferred embodiments of my invention, it will be understood that the invention may be embodied otherwise than as herein specifically illustrated or described, and that in the illustrated embodiments certain changes in the details of construction and in the form and arrangement of parts may be made without departing from the underlying idea or principles of this invention Within the scope of the appended claims.

Having thus described my invention, what I claim and desire to secure by Letters Patent is:

v 1. A sewing machine adapted to connect a plurality of superimposed widths of fabric, comprising means for feeding said. widths of fabricin a horizontal plane through the machine, stitching means for forming a line of stitching which secures said fabric widths together as the latter are fed through the machine, said stitching means being positioned relative to said feeding means so as to form said line of stitching parallel to but at a distance from the borders of said superimposed fabric widths, a plurality of overcast edge seaming elements divided in groups disposed at stations which are in spaced relation relative to the direction of movement of the said widths of fabric but olfset from the line of stitching formed by said stitching means, a separator for separating the superposed borders of said plurality of widths of fabric substantially at said stations, and means for deflecting the borders of some of said widths of fabric at said stations for disposing the borders of others of said widths of fabric to be overcast.

2. A sewing machine adapted to connect a pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for feeding said pair of widths in a horizontal plane through the machine, stitching means for forming a line of stitching which secures said pair together as the latter is fed through the machine, said stitching means being positioned relative to said feeding means so as to form said line of stitching parallel to but at a distance from the borders of said superposed fabric widths, a plurality of overcast edge seaming elements divided into two groups disposed at stations which are in spaced relation relative to the direction of movement of the said widths of fabric but offset from the line of stitching formed by said stitching means, one of said groups being disposed at a station ahead of and the other of said groups being disposed at a station to the rear of said stitching means, in relation to the direction of movement of said widths of fabric, a separator for separating said pair of widths of fabric substantially at said stations, and fabric deflector means adapted to fold back the border of the lower of said widths of fabric at said first mentioned station andadapted to raise at said other station the border of the upper of said widths of fabric and to permit extension of said folded back border at said other station to permit the simultaneous overcasting of both borders by said two groups of edge seaming elements at the same time that said stitching means is forming said stitching line. a

3. A sewing machine adapted to connect a pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for feeding said pair of widths in a horizontal plane through the machine, stitching means for forming a line of stitching which secures said pair together as the latter is fed through the machine, said stitching means being positioned relative to said feeding means so as to form said line of stitching parallel to but at a distance from the borders of said superposed fabric widths, a plurality of overcast edge seaming elements divided into two groups disposed at stations which are in spaced relation relative to the direction of movement of the said widths of fabric but offset from the line of stitching formed by said stitching means, one of said groups being disposed at a station ahead of and the other of said groups being disposed at a station to the rear of said stitching means, in relation to the direction of movement of said widths of fabric, a separator for separating said pair of widths of fabric substantially at said stations disposed plumb with one of said groups, and fabric deflector means comprising a thrusting element mounted for oscillatory movement and adapted to fold back the border of the lower of said pair of fabric widths at said first mentioned station where said lower width is plumb with said separator and with said one of said groups and said thrusting element also being adapted in said oscillatory movement thereof to raise at said other station the border of the upper of said fabric widths and to permit extension of said folded back border at said other station where said upper width is plumb with the other of said groups, whereby the separate overcasting of both borders is accomplished simultaneously with the forming of said stitching line.

4. A sewing machine adapted to connect a pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for feeding said pair of widths in a horizontal plane through the machine, stitching means for forming a line of stitching which secures said pair together as the latter is fed through the machine, said stitching means being positioned relative to said feeding means so as to form said line of stitching parallel to but at a distance from the borders of said superposed fabric widths, a plurality of overcast edge seaming elements divided into two groups disposed at sta- 6 tions which are in spaced relation relative to the direction of movement of said widths of fabric but oflset from the line of stitching formed by said stitching means, one of said groups being disposed at a station ahead of and the other of said groups being disposed at a station to the rear of said stitching means, in relation to thedirection of movement of said widths of fabric, a separator for separating said pair of widths of fabric substantially at said stations disposed plumb with one of said groups, and fabric deflector means comprising a thrusting element mounted for oscillatory movement and adapted to fold back the border of the lower of said pair of fabric widths at said first mentioned station where said lower width is plumb with said separator and with said one of said groups and said thrusting element also being adapted in said oscillatory movement thereof to raise at said other station the border of the upper of said fabric widths and to permit extension of said folded back border at'said other station where said upper width is'plumb with the other of said groups, whereby the separate overcasting 'of both borders is accomplished simultaneously with the forming V of said stitching line, said thrusting element comprising an upper and a lower bent arm mounted for oscillatory movement about a vertical axis. 7

5. A sewing machine adapted to connect a pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for feeding said pair of widths in a horizontal plane through the machine, stitching means for forming a line of stitching which secures said pair together as the latter is fed through the machine, said stitching means being positioned relative to said feeding means so as to form said line of stitching parallel to but at a distance from the borders of said superposed fabric widths, a plurality of overcast edge seaming elements divided into two groups disposed at stations which are in spaced relation relative to the direction of movement of the said widths of fabric but offset from the line of stitching formed by said stitching means, one of said groups being disposed at a station ahead of and the other of said groups being disposed at a station to the rear of said stitching means, in relation to the direction of movement of said widths of fabric, a separator for separating said pair of widths of fabric sub stantially at said stations disposed plumb with one of said groups, and fabric deflector means comprising a thrusting element mounted for oscillatory movement and adapted to fold back the border of the lower of said pair of fabric widths at said first mentioned station where said lower width is plumb withsaid separator and with said one of said groups and said thrusting element also being adapted in said oscillatory movement thereof to raise at said other station the-border of the upper of said fabric widths and to permit extension of said folded back border at said other station where said upper width is plumb with the other of said groups, whereby the separate overcasting 'of both borders is accomplished simultaneously with the forming of said stitching line, said thrusting element comprising an upper and a lower bent arm mounted for oscillatory movement about a vertical axis, said upper arm moving above said separator and said lower arm moving below said separator during the oscillatory movement of said thrusting element.

6. A sewing machine adapted to connect a pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising a needle plate, means for feeding said pair of widths in a horizontal plane through the machine, stitching means for forming a line of stitching which secures said pair together as the latter is fed through the machine, said stitching means being positioned relative to said feeding means so as to form said line of stitching parallel to but at a distance from the borders of said superposed fabric widths, a plurality of overcast edge seaming elements divided into two groups disposed at stations which are in spaced relation relative to the direction of movement of the said widths of fabric but offset from the line of stitching formed by said stitching 4 means, one of said groups being disposed at a station ahead of and the other of said groups being disposed at a station to the rear of said stitching means, in relation to the direction of movement of said widths of fabric, a separator for separating said pair of widths of fabric substantially at Said stations, and fabric deflector means adapted to fold back the border of the lower of said widths of fabric at said first mentioned station and adapted to raise at said other station the border of the upper of said widths of fabric and to permit extension of said folded back border at said other station to permit the simultaneous overcasting of both borders by said two groups of edge seaming elements at the same time that said stitching means is forming said stitching line, said separator comprising a plate mounted above the needle plate and provided with a hole whereby said one of said groups can overcast the upper of said widths of fabric.

7. A sewing machine adapted to connect a pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising, a needle plate, means for feeding said pair of widths in a horizontal plane through the machine, stitching means for forming a line of stitching which secures said pair together as the latter is fed through the machine, said stitching means being positioned relative to said feeding means so as to form said line of stitching parallel to but at a distance from the borders of said superposed fabric widths, a plurality of overcast edge seaming elements divided into two groups disposed at stations which are in spaced relation relative to the direction of movement of said widths of fabric but offset from the line of stitching formed by said stitching means, one of said groups being disposed at a station ahead of and the other of said groups being disposed at a station to the rear of said stitching means, in relation to the di rection of movement of said widths of fabric substantially at said stations, a separator for separating said pair of widths of fabric substantially at said stations disposed plumb with one of said groups, and fabric deflector means comprising a thrusting element mounted for oscillatory movement and adapted to fold back the border of the lower of said pair of fabric widths at said first mentioned station where said lower width is plumb with said separator and with said one of said groups and said thrusting element also being adapted in said oscillatory movement thereof to raise at said other station the border of the upper of said fabric widths and to permit extension of said folded back border at said other station where said upper width is plumb with the other of said groups, whereby the separate overcasting of both bordersis accomplished simultaneously with the forming of said stitching line, said thrusting element comprising an upper and a lower bent arm mounted for oscillatory movement about a vertical axis, said upper arm moving above said separator and said lower arm moving below said separator during the oscillatory movement of said thrusting element, said separator comprising a plate mounted above the needle plate and provided with a hole whereby said one of said groups can overcast the upper of said widths of fabric.

8. A sewing machine for sewing together two superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for securing said two widths together along a line of stitching parallel to the borders of said fabric Widths and at a distance therefrom, means for effecting relative borderwise deflections of said widths at first and .second sewing stations for disposing only one of said widths for a sewing operation at said first station and for disposing only the other of said Widths for a sewing operation at said other station, and means for sewing a first edging on the border of said one width at said first station and a second edging on the border of said other width at said second station, each of said edgings being secured only to the associated border.

9. A sewing machine adapted to connecta pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for feeding said pair in a horizontal plane through the machine, means for securing said pair together along a line of stitching parallel to the borders of said pair of fabric widths and at a distance therefrom, means for effecting relative borderwise deflections of said widths at first and second sewing.

stations for disposing only one of said widths for a sewing operation at said first station and for disposing only the other of said widths for a sewing operation at said other station, and means for sewing a first edging on the border of said one width at said first station and a second edging on the border of said other width at said second station, each of said edgings being secured only to the associated border.

It A sewing machine adapted to connect a pair of superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for feeding said pair in a horizontal plane through the machine, means for securing said pair together along a line of stitching parallel to the borders of said pair of fabric widths and at a distance therefrom, means for effecting relative borderwise deflections of said widths at first and second sewing stations for disposing only one of said widths for a sewing operation at said first station and for disposing only the other of said widths for a sewing operation at said other station, and means for sewing a first edging on the border of said one width at said first station and a second edging on the border of said other width at said second station, each of said edgings being secured only to the asso ciated border, and said deflecting means being operable in timed relation with said securing means and said sewing means.

11. A sewing machine for sewing together two superimposed widths of fabric comprising, means for securing said two widths together along a line of stitching parallel to the borders of said fabric widths and at a distance therefrom, means for effecting relative borderwise deflections of said widths at first and second sewing stations for disposing only one of said widths for a sewing operation at said first station and for disposing only the other of said widths for a sewing operation at said other station, and

" means for sewing a first edging on the border of said one width at said first station and a second edging on the border of said other width at said second station, each of said edgings being secured only to the associated border, said deflecting means comprising means for disposing said other width relative to said one width at said first station and means for disposing said one width relative to said other width at said second station.

References Cited by the Examiner UNITED STATES PATENTS 993,452 5/11 Lohman 112-162 1,156,839 10/15 Gray 112-163 1,587,957 6/26 Huber 112162 X 2,448,495 8/48 Muecke 112-262 2,537,160 1/51 Saltzman et al. 112--153 X FOREIGN PATENTS 779,132 7/57 Great Britain.

JORDAN FRANKLIN, Primary Examiner.

THOMAS J. HICKEY, DAVID J. WILLIAMOWSKY,

Examiners. 

8. A SEWING MACHINE FOR SEWING TOGETHER TWO SUPERIMPOSED WIDTHS OF FABRIC COMPRISING, MEANS FOR SECURING SAID TWO WIDTHS TOGETHER ALONG A LINE OF STITCHING PARALLEL TO THE BORDERS OF SAID FABRIC WIDTHS AND AT A DISTANCE THEREFROM, MEANS FOR EFFECTING RELATIVE BORDERWISE DEFLECTIONS OF SAID WIDTHS AT FIRST AND SECOND SEWING STATIONS FOR DISPOSING ONLY ONE OF SAID WIDTHS FOR A SEWING OPERATION AT SAID FIRST AND FOR DISPOSING ONLY THE OTHER OF SAID WIDTHS FOR A SEWING OPERATION AT SAID OTHER STATION, AND MEANS FOR SEWING A FIRST EDGING ON THE BORDER OF SAID ONE WIDTH AT SAID FIRST STATION AND A SECOND EDGING ON THE BORDER OF SAID OTHER WIDTH AT SAID SECOND STATION, EACH OF SAID EDGINGS BEING SECURED ONLY TO THE ASSOCIATED BORDER. 